Boats after Sunset
We left at 5 am from Goregaon as planned. Nalsarovar in Gujarat was our
destination. It was the first halt of our road trip. From Nal, we were
to head to the Little Rann of Kutch and then on to the Jawai Bandh to experience the post-monsoon scenery of that
beautiful landscape we had visited in May.
At the Nal, we were to meet up with Ramzan bhai, our guide and
host. Anil mama and Balabhai knew him well and had stayed with him
earlier.
The journey was long and arduous - about 750km. The road up to the
Gujarat border was in terrible condition with patchy work in progress
in random spots in a disorganised manner. We lunched near Surat at about half past 1. From Bharooch we get on to the new Mumbai-Delhi expressway and the traffic clears up.
We reached the Vekariya village next to the sarovar after
sunset. Ramzan
bhai had made sleeping arrangements in the verandah of
an empty neighbouring house. Four
khatt (frame cots with rope supports)
were set up. He had arranged for the thick blankets as it was
wintertime.
We had home cooked dinner of bajra rotlas and mixed veg sabzi all
washed down with excellent chaas. They served us with the famous
Indian hospitality and love.
It got cold in the night and we were thankful for the thick blankets.
The bad news was that some political disturbance had caused the
sarovar to be shut to the public. So in the early morning, we decided to
roam the nearby areas in search of the birdies. The Namaqua migratory
pigeon from Africa was the star along with the red Munia. In the
evening we went to see some Saras cranes.
Just after sunset we decided to go see the sarovar from an irregular route, unseen from the guards. We saw some boats and a boatman. The Nalsarovar is very shallow but covers a vast area. These fishermen with their flatboats have their livelihoods tied to this water.
For dinner, we had a special treat of local fish curry and fried
fish. All with
chullha roasted bajra
rotlas.
Next morning we got up early and left for the Little Rann of Kutch. We had lived two
nights with a fisherman from the Nalsarovar.
the boatman
good food
bed time! this is where we stayed
early morning birding
our guide
good food
switchboard
writing on the wall
cotton
transporter
new developments
faith and customs