Kalubhai
Kalubhai. I have had the privilege of spending 2 days with Kalubhai and his
family. Kalubhai is a 4th generation salt maker from the Little Rann of Kutch.
Salt-making is a laborious task. They work barefoot in the salt pans. This
takes a toll on their legs and feet, and older people have permanent swellings
and thickening of their skin. Both Kalubhai and his wife work this tough job.
The Rann is a harsh place - barren with almost no good water. The sun beats
down so hard that people not accustomed to this climate will not be able to
survive a summer here. The wild asses roam this arid land. The raptors fly
over it looking for food.
The land oozes salt water. This is what is used for the salt making. Shallow
wells are dug and the water is pumped into the pans. Uptil a few years ago,
they ran water pumps on cude oil 24/7 for this. Now they run only at night.
Electric pumps run in the daytime powererd by 2 large solar pannels. You can
see these pannels dotted around the landscape - indicating where a family is
working.
They get drinking water weekly. This is usually Narmada water which has
transformed this part of the state. The water is still salty. The early
morning sweet black tea we got had a distincive salty taste. That tea with the
hot puri's Kalubhai's wife made for us made our daybreak special.
The Rann is vast. It is flat and featureless. The horizon stretches out in
all directions. The landscape evokes a sense of melancholy.
The landscape is dotted with these small temples dedicated to various
deities. They serve as markers on this featureless landscape.
Kalubhai's wife working on the pan. They flatten the base with their bare
feet as they preapre a new pan. It is very hard work. The mud is sticky.
When dried it hardens like a rock. We had to use screwdrivers to get it out
of our shoes.
A control board. Sort of. Control of the pumps.
The boys of the Rann. Children of the salt makers
The gate at Zhinjuwada - The gateway to the Rann
The salt pans
The salt pans
Dawn. The white salt reflected the sky vividly.
Arrid
Food for the soul
Bajra rotla's, fresh toor rassa, special halva. It was amazing food.
We spent two nights in our tents next to their hut.
We bid adieu to Kalubhai and his family in the cold morning.
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